Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Steps to mount a sweet water aquarium

1. Ecosystem

Before mounting an aquarium we have to be awere what kind of fish we intend.
Every type of fish as his needs, specially concerning to the ecosystem and aquarium size.
There are fishes that leave in a habitat of rocks, others of send, or Amazon or even swamp. This fishes have to be also consider as aquarium companions or even what kind of plants to use.
After the habitant choice, we can go to the next step, equipment.

2. Equipment

The equipment is compose by 3 elements:

a) Thermostat

Basically is to keep the water temperature. This can change depending on the fish and plants kept, but normally should be kept about 28ºC.



Attention – Disconnect the electricity, before removing it from water

b) Filter

Basically is used to filter and oxigenate the aquarium water, and should be clean in a regular bases.

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Some filters work through resins, ceramic, coal and sponge. The sponge filter, must be changed when the sponge is dark with dirt. The coal must be changed 6 to 6 months.

c ) Light

Imitates sun light, and it’s intensity must match the needs of plants or fiches. Normally, 8 h period of exposure is enouph.



We can, depending of the needs equipment for CO2, that adds some feeding complement to the plants. Also a circulation pomp may add some oxygen to the water.

3. Substratum

Now that we chosen our aquarium and have the basic equipment, the substratum must be chosen, that is, what is going to be the bottom of the aquarium. There are several choices:
a) Coral gravel for alcaline ecosystem like Lake Malawi

b) Send for sendy river fishes

c) Fertilizer or plant base necessary for plants to grab on

d) River gravel, that can be thick, medium or skinny

4. Mounting

Finally mounting !

First all is washed with running water. The gravel must be well washed or the aquarim water won’t be clean.

Attention: Never use detergents or any other product that isn’t indicated for aquarium

After the aquarium is placed in the chosen place. Do not put near a window.
The gravel, filter, light, and thermostat are placed (only after full with water the equipment is turn on)

The aquarium should stay about 15 days only full of water and with the equipment working, were the temperature should be controlled. In this days the decoration, like rocks and other can be chosen.

5. Plants

After 15 days, with filters and temperature stabilized, it is time to add the first plants.

At this time the location, light and fertilizers must be considered.

Plants are leaving beans that have needs and should be respected.

http://www.tropica.com/default.asp

Between plants and fish, 3 days should be given for plants to recover for the transplantation.


6. Fish

Finally we arrive to fish.

Before choosing fish on the store, a few basic rules must be considered:

a) Companions and aquarium habitat
b) Fish characteristics like size
c) How many time is in the store (ideal should be 15 days)
d) Store aquarium, if it is clean and looks good
e) Fish skin and flippers.
f) Any sick companions or with bad look
g) Store water characteristics

After buying we have to be careful to fish introduction, since a choque can cause his death.
So, leave the fish in the bag inside of the aquarium at least 5 m, so he accustoms to the temperature. After that time add some aquarium water to the bag and wait another 5 m.
Now we can let them free. Do not add the store water to your aquarium !
In the first day it is normal that the fish doesn’t eat hides. This should respected, since the huge stress can cause sickness and even kill the fish..

7. Feeding

Fish and plants need to be fed. To plants a fertilizer should be had 15 to 15 days and a weekly change 10% of water should be done.
Fish can be fed with flakes, frozen food or alive food. A mix of several foods should be given for a healthy fish.

8. Maintenance

Now that the ecosystem is mounted and working a few rules should be follow:
a) When we feed the fish, all the food should be eaten and no remains should be left on the aquarium bottom.
b) Check if the equipment is working properly
c) Watch the fish to see if there are any health problems.
d) Change 10% water every week
e) Drop fertilizer for the plants every 15 days
f) See, if it is a sponge filter, needs to be changed or washed.
g) If it is a coal filter, change the coal after 6 months.

9. Sickness

Like us, fish also are subjected to sickness, and many times this is introduced with new fish or by our hands.
To detect an observation is the key. Changing flippers, lost of appetite, changing colors, changing on the skin, … are some symptoms that we can detect in our little friends.
Some times they can be treated, but not always this happens.






Livebearers



Description



Livebearers are fish that don’t lay eggs, but give birth to tiny live fish.

They are easy fish to breed and keep, because they are little demanding about the water conditions.

Usually they only need a well-planted aquarium, temperature about 25º-28º, a balanced diet and weekly partial (10%) water changed, to keep this fish healthy and during a long time.

The great attractive about this kind of fish is it’s coloration (yellow, blue, red, orange, white, black, …) and easiness to breed.



Feeding




They are not demanding fish, but we must take care to offer then a balanced diet.

The diet may consist in dry food, flakes, baby brine, Microworms, Daphnia, Grindal Worms.



Breeding




Livebearers are fish easy to breed and normally its only necessary to have a male and several females, for us to have young fish swimming around.
But dew to the easiness of breeding, the parents don’t have any parent care in relation to their fry, thus is necessary to have some care in order to have some survivors.


There is, mainly, two methods to increase the rate of fry survival:
1ª) Maternities: Consists in setting a fish support (it is very common in any pet shop), where the female is placed until delivery.
Personally, we do not have a good opinion on this method, because a great percentage of the times, the females leave themselves to die or give birth before delivery time, which is a consequence of the stress being confined to a place smaller and different of they environment.

2ª) Hiding places: Consists in a very planted aquarium with rocks and other decoration that allows the fry to hide.
This method is mainly used, not only for supplying more natural and free stress environment, but because it seems to reduce the mortality of the mothers. In other end, we have a considerable reduction of fry survival.



The livebearers females are easily to distinct from the males, due to their large bellies (mainly when they are pregnant) and when they are ready to deliver, a dark spot can be seen in the end of the belly, witch is the eyes of the babies.



Desieses




Poor water conditions are the main reason for fish stress and therefore for the creation of ideal conditions for the beginning of desieses.



Follows below a brief description of some livebearers illnesses:

Columnaris (Mouth fungus)

Symptom: Whit fungus around the mouth, that sometimes, may appear in the body and fish fin.

Treatment: Usually is caused bay fish stress and poor water conditions. For treatment use anti-bacterial medicines.


Wasting Disease

Symptom: Shrinking of the belly, loss of weight, lost of vitality and shrunk fins.

Treatment: Flagyl or internal remover of parasites.


Ictio

Symptom: Small white spots that provoke tingle.

Treatment: Raise water temperature and use anti-fungus medicines. It exists in the market medicines that relate the treatment against this illness.


Velvet

Symptom: Tingle, lethargy, appetite loss and weight, gasping breath, fins leaned against the body and white or yellowish velvet in the skin.

Treatment: Raise temperature of the aquarium, reduce illumination and use copper sulphate. It exists in the market medicines that relate the treatment against this illness.

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